Mattison's Restaurants, Grill, Steakhouse & Catering in Sarasota, Siesta Key, Longboat Key and Bradenton, Wedding Caterer | Sarasota Herald Tribune's Ticket Magazine

New Mattison's shines at pier

Mattison's Riverside at Memorial Pier in Bradenton is the newest entry in the dining empire of Chef Paul Mattison, who has three self-named eateries, a catering company and shop in Sarasota. Now he's formed a partnership with the Miller family and taken culinary and creative control of the former Twin Dolphin Marina Grill.

Mattison's Riverside opened just shy of two months ago, with a new menu and extensive renovations. Warm neutral walls, exposed brick, pop-art prints and hand-painted murals lend an air of sophistication and a welcome change from fish and anchors at similar locales. Mattison built his reputation on his signature Mediterranean-inspired cuisine. At Riverside, he's doing it with an Asian flair, with an emphasis on fresh seafood under the supervision of executive chef Tommy Hodgson.

On the starter side, steamed mussels become more appealing with lemongrass and lime, calamari more tempting fried in a wok with key lime rémoulade. It was a tough choice, but we decided on Tempera Shrimp Rangoon-Style ($11). The four giant shrimp were fried light and puffy and were so good on their own that the herbed cream cheese was nearly an afterthought. Likewise, the Five Spiced Grilled Tenderloin Lollipops ($9) stood on their own. Seared on the outside and rare inside, they were a hit with and without the slightly spiced mustard and tangy chili dipping sauces and perched on a bonus bed of sinfully creamy garlic mashed potatoes. Mattison has wisely kept the Twin Dolphin 1976 Salad of iceberg yes, iceberg lettuce, egg, bacon, and a terrific creamy Parmesan dressing The small $3 salad was enough for two of us and a fine complement to a shared cup of the very good lobster bisque. For an entree, our server was enthusiastic about the Mangrove Snapper Roasted in Banana Leaves ($20). The light fish was so fresh and soft, it literally seemed to melt in my mouth. Grilled African Snook ($17) was heavier, but just a fresh, coated in a lightly seasoned crust. I liked the key lime tartar sauce but could not taste the sweet pickle promised by the menu. We scored again with the Grilled Delmonico ($24), just black on the outside and medium rare, as ordered, inside. There wasn t a bit of fat and I think we could have cut it with a butter knife. A topping of Gorgonzola did not overpower the steak, and the fries that came along were wonderful. Key Lime Cheesecake (46) may disappoint diners expecting a dense, rich dessert. This version is lighter and airy, sweet and tart. I ll take Mattison s crème brûlée ($7) over just about any version out there. You can really taste the vanilla and, served in an au gratin-style dish, there is enough of the prized burnt sugar topping for every spoon of custard.

Marina
Having never been to the Twin Dolphin Marina, I was surprised at how large Mattison's Riverside is. There are customers in booths, at tables, in private rooms, at the bar, at the intimate sushi bar and outside. Yet the restaurant never seemed too crowded, or more important, too bustling or noisy. Visitors who are familiar with the Twin Dolphin Marina Grill and The Pier before that won t recognize the place. Gone are the pastel-colored walls, fish décor and tile. People walk in and their jaws drop, said general manager Greg Campbell, when describing the dramatic face-lift inside and outside the 18,000- square-foot building. The restaurant has doubled the staff, said Campbell, and there is a full-time wedding and banquet coordinator, with more renovations on the way after season.