Mattison's Restaurants, Grill, Steakhouse & Catering in Sarasota, Siesta Key, Longboat Key and Bradenton, Wedding Caterer | Bradenton Herald Tribune, Weekend Section

Mattison's Riverside a culinary delight
Kay Kay Pruden, Special to the Herald

The walk you take though the center of the marina between boats of all sizes is the first of what will prove to be many pleasant experiences at Mattison's Riverside. Tiki torches show the way. The historic building has been fully renovated both inside and out. Take special note of the curved wall by the sushi bar. It was so unique; I just had to touch it. Riverside not only offers indoor and outdoor waterfront dining but also an elegant ballroom with amazing views of the Manatee River, a 140 seat dining deck with an indoor bar as well as an outdoor bar and fire pit, private dining rooms, a sushi bar, a main dining room and live music nightly.

We were quickly presented with a basket of Bavarian herbed rolls with a Boursin butter spread containing spices, which included rosemary. From the "Starters and Sharing Plates" list, we ordered Tempura Shrimp Rangoon Style ($11) and Artichokes Esther ($8). Served beautifully on square white plates, the first held four huge shrimp, golden brown in their light tempura batter. At each corner of the plate was a spot of soft, herbed cream cheese and some sweet, yet tangy red chili sauce. They were perfect foils for one another as we dipped the tender shrimp into both. Five unevenly round, golden balls of Parmesan-fried artichoke hearts also sat around field greens. These were served with lemon buerre blanc sauce, creamy with a hint of lemon. Roasted capers with their delightful briny taste and crunch were the perfect garnish. When we asked to take some home, our server thoughtfully offered us extra containers of the sauces. My daughter ordered Togarashi Seared Sea Scallops ($22) for her entrée and I chose our servers' recommendation, Filet Longboat ($25). Her large scallops were seared in the Japanese seven-spice mixture called Togarashi. The blend contains Chinese chile, orange peel, seaweed, ginger, poppy seeds and sesame seeds, each adding a different flavor. . . a touch of tang, a bit of sweetness, a little citrus and more. This was served with a very creamy, perfectly cooked roasted vegetable risotto combined with different cheeses and a vegetable medley.

My filet was wrapped in applewood smoked bacon topped with caramelized brown sugar and Dijon hollandaise. The first taste was very sweet and surprising on a filet, the smoked taste settled in a moment later and the Dijon mustard gave bite. I love the serenade of different tastes that chef/owner Paul Mattison puts out. The filet was wonderfully tender and unbelievably flavorful. Garlic mashed potatoes accompanied it, as did the vegetable medley.

At last, it was time for dessert. We passed up a flourless chocolate cake and a berry dessert thinking one would be too rich and the other too light. My daughter ordered Macadamia Nut Encrusted Coconut Ice Cream ($6). It was a giant ball and the tastes complemented one another as well as everything else had. A dollop of whipped cream topped with a raspberry sat on each corner of the plate. I had Cr?me Brulee ($7). Crisp and sugary on top, it was very light inside and decorated with colorful berries. I enjoyed a hot and robust cup of coffee ($2.75) to finish the feast.

Other menu offerings include Herb Crusted African Snook, Mangrove Snapper Roasted in Banana Leaves, Wasabi Dusted Tuna, Basil Pesto Crusted Salmon, Wild Mushroom Stuffed Ravioli. Oven Roasted Half Duck, Rack of Lamb and two
other steaks. Maine Lobster Tails, King Crab Legs and Seasonal Stone Crab are also offered as well as salads and a choice of soups. If you're looking for something lighter, the sushi bar offers nigiri, sashimi, maki and signature rolls.

Everything on the menu seems to contain a different serenade of tastes. It's truly wonderful food and I consider Chef Paul Mattison to be an artist. I certainly hope you visit and discover his art. I'm sure you'll enjoy your visit as much as I did as you savor all the different and delightful culinary experiences his talent brings to you.

Restaurant reviewers dine anonymously at Herald expense. New restaurants are given an eight-week grace period before being reviewed.

GREAT LUNCH LOCATION

Review of Mattison's Riverside, Address: 1200 First Ave. W., Bradenton Phone: 748-8087
Hours: 11:30 am-10 p.m. Sunday-Thursday; 11:30 a.m.-midnight Friday and Saturday
Credit: All major cards accepted
Web site: www.mattisons.com
Alcohol: Full bar plus wine list
Handicap access: Yes
Neighborhood: Twin Dolphin Marina
Price type: Dinner entrees begin at $16 for some pasta dishes to Twin Maine Lobster Tails at $38, most in the $20-something range
Outdoor dining: Yes
Kid-friendly: Yes
Reservations: Suggested for dining room